Installation Advice

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Semi-Frameless Install

This guide is designed as a reference only and may be incomplete, or not suitable for your purposes. Each fence should be assessed individually.

GlassFit accepts no responsibility for how the information provided is used.


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Congratulations on deciding to install your very own semi-frameless glass pool fence. Your determination to DIY will not only save you a pile of money, but the finished product will be a proud achievement customised to your needs.

Your finished pool fence - both in terms of strength and aesthetics - will be dependent on how well you prepare, and the accuracy in which you install.

Toughened Glass can not be cut or altered so careful planning is imperative.

Help Line
  • (07) 3209 3877
  • (03) 8768 7766
Mud map
  • Physically mark your work area with a chalk line, so as to create your desired layout
  • Draw your plan (not to scale) on the Fence Planner
  • Measure from point to point on your chalk line and note it on the planner
  • Mark in gates and landscaping features

Semi-Frameless Measuring Example


Ensure you have no gaps larger than 100mm at any point on your fence to comply with pool fencing regulations.


If you haven't ordered your materials already, you can do so from the Semi-Frameless Pool Fencing page.

For any late changes to design, give us a call. We can swap materials, although a small restocking fee applies.

Getting ready

GlassFit has created your installation kit to be as simple as possible to install, however, it should be treated as a serious building task and due care should be maintained.

If you are new to working with glass and DIY projects we suggest you read through the entire guide before breaking ground. Give our staff a call, or send an email if you have any questions. Please don't hesitate to call - our staff have years of experience in installations and enjoy helping a budding DIYer.

Unlikely though it is, should you lose your nerve, we have backup teams of quality installers on standby!

Tools of the Trade


  • Tape measure (and licensed operator!)
  • Chalk line and pencil
  • Spirit level
  • Electrical tape
  • Hammer
  • Grinder
  • Power drill

In Ground

  • Bucket of water
  • Scissor shovels

In Concrete

  • Core drill
  • Cold chisel
  • BBQ tongs (these will not be suitable for your next bbq!)
  • Timber wedges
  • Bucket and jug (for pouring grout)
Tool Hire

GlassFit may be able provide tools that may be hard to find. Ask us how we can help.

1: Preparing Holes

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Marking Out

It is time to start the installation, so grab your tools and let's get started!

  • Mark your plan onto the concrete or grass/garden area
  • If no longer visible, replace your chalk line
  • Place a pencil mark where each post will be, allowing 10-20mm more than the panel sizes
  • Place a string line for in ground posts, placing a screw-driver or similar item at the post positions
  • Mark in any gates, allowing for gaps
  • Double check all panel sizes, post positions and spacings again!
In Other Words...

When marking out your post positions, your main job is to reproduce the measurements shown on your plan.

Check to make sure your markings represent the materials you have been supplied.


It is important to maintain accuracy when coring your post holes. You should ensure that your core hole is exactly centred on your pencil marks.

  • Using a 76-85mm core-bit, make yourself a template from a piece of plywood ± 200mm x 200mm
  • Drill through the piece of timber
  • Place the template so that it aligns with the pencil mark
  • Score your holes without water to a depth of 3-5mm
  • Turn the water on and finish drilling the holes to a depth of 110mm
  • Clean the area thoroughly to avoid staining the nearby surfaces with concrete slurry
  • Use a hammer and chisel to tap the cores loose
  • With your tongs, remove the cores
  • Drain the holes with a sponge
Getting an Accurate Depth

We recommend that you mark the core bit with tape at 110mm from the tip. This will allow you to know how far you have drilled.

Digging holes

It is important to maintain accuracy when digging post holes.

  • Using scissor shovels or a suitable spade, dig a hole approximately 250mm in diameter
  • Use a crow bar if necessary when encountering hard soil
  • Continue to a depth of 400-500mm

2: Installing Posts

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Preparing Posts
  • Unpack all of the materials you have received, laying the posts in a line
  • Place them on a surface that will not scratch the powdercoat
  • Measure 1205mm from the top of each post and place a pencil mark near the channels
  • For custom panels, alter the measurement to suit
  • Slide in your aluminium stoppers so that the top aligns with the pencil marks
  • Hold the stops in position and wrap the post with electrical tape, preventing them from sliding
  • Drill a screw underneath the stoppers for added support
Positioning Posts

Into concrete

  • The first post you place will need to be at the highest point in the fence line
  • Place the post in the core hole ensuring it is centred
  • Rotate the post so that the channels are in line
  • To secure the post use 3-4 timber wedges, and gently tap them into position
  • Place your spirit level on the post and adjust until roughly straight
  • Your first post should measure approximately 1240mm (assuming a fairly level surface) from top of the post to ground level. If necessary, trim your post with a drop saw or grinder
  • Place your next post in its hole and wedge it into position
  • Carefully bridge the two posts with your spirit level
  • If this new post is too high, mark where the level reads true with a pencil. This is the amount that you will need to trim off this post
  • Make adjustments until the two posts are level
  • Continue placing posts in the same way
  • Straighten and plumb the posts
  • Check that the posts are the correct distance apart
  • Check that the stops are at the correct height
  • Place a small lean on the hinge posts (see diagram above)

Into soil

  • Set up a string line 25mm off-centre (edge of posts)
  • Put your first post in its hole
  • Have your concrete and water bucket ready
  • Hold the post in position and check to see if it is the desired height (or level with other posts)
  • Trim the post if necessary or adjust the hole depth
  • Hold the post plumb and check that the posts are the correct distance apart
  • Check that the post is in line with the string line
  • Fill the hole with concrete trying not to knock the post out of position
  • Place a small layer of dirt on top
  • Check that the stops are at the correct height
  • Check the post height/level
  • To plumb the post push on the dirt while gently nudging the top
  • Continue placing in ground posts
  • Place a modest lean on any hinge posts (10-15mm)

3: Finishing Up

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Using MP60 (Grout)

Double check everything and make sure you are 100% happy with the fence. There will be no turning back from here!

  • Add roughly two handfuls of MP60 into a small bucket (or icecream container) and slowly add water
  • Continue mixing until you get a thick consistency, similar to melted chocolate or a thick shake. If you have excess water, simply add more grout
  • Using a funnel, jug or applicator pour and fill each hole approximately 30mm from the top
  • Be careful not to nudge the posts, but if you do simply restraighten them.
  • Clean away any run off with a sponge as soon as possible
  • Grab a quick glass of water and have a union mandated break
  • Test the MP60 with a screwdriver to confirm it has hardened. This may take up to two hours, or as little as 10 minutes
  • Remove timber wedges
  • Fill the holes to the top
  • Place the dress rings and clean any grout on the posts
  • When set, get ready to place the glass
Grouting Tips

MP60 is a high strength, non-shrink concrete grout and can harden very quickly. On a warm day it may take less than 20 minutes. It is recommended to make small batches at a time.

MP60 contains cement and sand (in addition to other compounds). If you have sensitive skin you may wish to wear gloves when mixing and cleaning.

Placing the glass panels
  • Place plastic grommets (provided) into the posts, so that they sit on the stops
  • Grab your first panel of glass, ensuring the compliance logo is at the bottom
  • Put the panel in being extremely careful that the glass sits comfortably on the stops, before releasing
  • Continue placing glass panels
  • Use the glazing rubber, starting at the bottom, to lock the glass panels into position
  • Trim the rubber hanging out of the posts
  • Put on the post caps
Installing the gate
  • Mount hinges to the gate as per directions. Hinge installation instructions
  • Place timber spacers on each side of the gate opening
  • Put the gate in position.
  • Use packers to align the top of the gate with the top of the panels either side.
  • Place extra packers on the latch-side, so that it appears 3-5mm higher. Although this may seem too high, when finished it should line up perfectly (if you have placed sufficient lean on the hinge post).
  • Double-check that the hinge post and the hinge-side of the gate are parallel
  • Slide the gate so there is a 6-9mm gap between the latch post and the bottom corner of the gate
  • Mark the hinge holes if necessary and pre-drill small holes
  • Drill screws into position, being careful to not over tighten
  • Remove packers from under the gate
  • Tap the top of the gate downwards, and the latch post if needed so that everything aligns
  • Replace blocks and remove screws to make adjustments
  • Attach the half of the latch with the handle (including stopper plate and plastic spacers) to the gate, making use of the pre-drilled holes
  • Place the striker half onto the post and screw it into position
Pool Fencing Regulations
  • Gates must open outwards from the pool area
  • The gap between the gate's latch-side and the panel beside it must not exceed 10mm
  • Gates must close automatically from any position
Final Tweaks

Job well done, time to celebrate.


For any major problems, pick up the phone and give us a call. We have seen it all before, and know how to fix it!

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