This guide is designed as a reference only and may be incomplete, or not suitable for your purposes. Each fence should be assessed individually.
GlassFit accepts no responsibility for how the information provided is used.
PreparationShow all Hide all
Congratulations on deciding to install your very own frameless glass pool fence. Your determination to DIY will not only save you a pile of money, but the finished product will be a proud acheivement customised to your needs.
A word of warning: your finished pool fence - both in terms of strength and aesthetics - will be dependant on how well you prepare, and the accuracy in which you install.
Toughened Glass can not be cut or altered so careful planning is imperative.
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- Physically mark your work area with a chalk line, so as to create your desired layout
- Draw your plan (not to scale) on the Fence Planner
- Measure from point to point on your chalk line and note it on the planner
- Mark in gates and landscaping features
Ensure you have no gaps larger than 100mm at any point on your fence to comply with pool fencing regulations.
The gaps between panels are ideally spaced at 50mm.
If you haven't ordered your materials already, you can do so from the Frameless Pool Fencing page.
For any late changes to design, give us a call. We can swap materials, although a small restocking fee applies.
GlassFit has created your installation kit to be as simple as possible to install, however, it should be treated as a serious building task and due care should be maintained.
If you are new to working with glass and DIY projects we suggest you read through the entire guide before breaking ground. Give our staff a call, or send an email if you have any questions. Please don't hesitate to call - our staff have years of experience in installations and enjoy helping a budding DIYer.
Unlikely though it is, should you lose your nerve, we have backup teams of quality installers on standby!
Tools of the Trade
- Tape measure (and licenced operator!)
- Chalk line and pencil
- Core drill
- Bucket and jug(for pouring grout)
- Spirit level
- BBQ tongs (these will not be suitable for your next bbq!)
- Cold chisel
- Allen keys
- Electrical tape
- Braces, strips of timber and G-Clamps
- Timber spacers approx. 35-50mm in height, and small plastic spacers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5mm for adjusting panel heights (available from most hardware stores)
GlassFit may be able provide tools that may be hard to find. Ask us how we can help.
1: Drilling HolesShow all Hide all
It is time to start, so grab your tools and let's get started!
- Mark your plan onto the concrete/paved area
- If no longer visible, replace your chalk line
- Place a pencil mark where each edge of the glass panel will be, ensuring the gaps between are approximately equal accross each section
- Mark in any gates, allowing for gaps
- Mark spigot placement 250mm from the original pencil marks (excluding gate area). For panels smaller than 1000mm you may wish to reduce this figure.
- Place a circle around these final marks to avoid confusion when drilling.
- Double check all panel sizes, spigot positions and spacings again!
It is important to maintain accuracy when coring your post holes. You should ensure that your core hole is exactly centred on your pencil marks.
- Using a 76-85mm core-bit, make yourself a template from a piece of plywood ± 300mm x 300mm
- Drill through the piece of timber
- Place the template so that it aligns with the pencil mark
- Score your holes without water to a depth of 3-5mm
- Turn the water on and finish drilling the holes to a depth of 110mm
- Clean the area thoroughly to avoid staining the nearby surfaces with concrete slurry
- Use a hammer and chisle to tap the cores loose
- With your tongs, remove the cores
- Drain the holes with a sponge
Well done. That is phase one complete!
Getting an Accurate Depth
We recommend that you mark the core bit with tape at 110mm from the tip. This will allow you to know how far you have drilled.
2: InstallationShow all Hide all
Your glass panels should be stacked, leaning against a wall, ready to go. Panels should be placed up-side-down to ensure the small compliance logo is at the top.
- Remove the spigots from their boxes
- Loosen the grub screws
- Place a block of timber or an empty spigot box behind the first panel to make space to work
- Measure in from each side 250mm (or the figure you chose)
- Slide both spigots into position
- Remeasure to guarauntee accuracy
- Tighten the grub screws to they grab, followed by a futher half-turn
- Slide the dress ring over the spigot, checking that the polished side is down, and tape it in position. Alternatively, use a rubber band to secure the dress ring.
- Flip the panel and place it aside in a safe area.
- Repeat the process for all panels, or enough to do a section of your fence
Erecting the Glass Panels
- Re-flick your chalk accross the core hole centres
- Place your timber spacers approximately 100mm away from each hole to avoid contact with the dress rings
- Prepare your braces, weights and clamps.
- Carry your first panel into position checking that the spigots line up with each of the core holes
- Place the panel so that the glass sits on top of the timber spacers
- While ensuring the panel doesn't topple over, connect the first brace and add a weight to its foot
- Continue placing panels in a similar manner, being careful not to knock the panels together
Use Fewer Braces
Depending on weather conditions and the quality of your braces you can connect up to three panels together using timber and clamps.
Level, plumb and straight
- Choose the panel that sits at the highest point of the concrete. This will be your starting point
- Place the small plastic spacers atop the timber, using a spirit level to guide your adjustments until the level reads true
- Repeat these steps with the panel beside, making sure the two panels are at the same height
- Continue until all panels are level
- Measure your gaps and gate openings to ensure that they are correct
- Next, move the panels so that the bottoms are aligned with the chalk line
- Pick one panel and plumb it (making it vertically straight)
- More the braces the surrounding panels so that all panels are aligned with each other
- Check that the fence is in a straight line
- To make adjustments, identify the problem area and tap the bottoms to move them - both sides of a gap
- Plumb the fence again and check that is straight
3: Finishing UpShow all Hide all
Using MP60 (Grout)
Double check everything and make sure you are 100% happy with the fence. There will be no turning back from here!
- Add roughly two handfuls of MP60 into a small bucket (or icecream container) and slowly add water
- Continue mixing until you get a thick consistency, similar to melted chocalate or a thick shake. If you have excess water, simply add more grout
- Using a funnel, jug or applicator pour and fill each hole to the top
- Be careful not to nudge the glass panels, but if you do simply restraighten them.
- Clean away any run off with a sponge as soon as possible
- Drop the dress rings and clean any grout on the spigots
- Grab a quick glass of water and have a union mandated break
- Test the MP60 with a screwdriver to confirm it has hardened. This may take up to two hours, or as little as 10 minutes
- When set, gentally remove the braces
MP60 is a high strength, non-shrink concrete grout and can harden very quickly. On a warm day it may take less than 20 minutes. It is recommended to make small batches at a time.
Contents include cement and sand (in addition to other compounds). If you have sensitive skin you may wish to wear gloves when mixing and cleaning.
Installing the gate
- Mount hinges to the gate as per directions. Hinge installation instructions
- Place timber spacers on each side of the gate opening
- Put the gate in position.
- Use packers to align the top of the gate with the top of the panels either side.
- Place extra packers on the latch-side, so that it appears 1-2mm higher. Although this may seem too high, when finished it should line up perfectly.
- Attach the hinges to the hinge panel, utilising the pre-drilled holes
- Using a spanner and allen key, tighten the gate securely
- Remove the timber spacers and confirm that gate swings freely and lines up with the other panels
- Make adjustments if necessary
- Attach the spring-handle half of the latch to the gate, making use of the pre-drilled holes
- Place the striker half (including pressure plate) on the latch panel and tighten the grub screws
- Slide the latch panel over, if necessary, to reduce or increase the gap size
- Gates must open outwards from the pool area
- The gap between the gate's latch-side and the panel beside it must not exceed 10mm
- Gates must close automatically from any position
Job well done, time to celebrate.
If your fence is not quite perfect, don't panic. Our spigots are designed for easy adjustment.
- Tightening the top grub screw will push the panel away from you
- Tightening the bottom grub screw will draw the panel towards you
- Loosening both screws will allow you to slide the panel back and forth
- Place a small packer in the seat of the spigot to raise the glass panel
Using a combination of these you should be able to accomplish a near perfect finish.
WE ARE HERE TO HELP!
For any major problems, pick up the phone and give us a call. We have seen it all before, and know how to fix it!
If you are feeling mighty proud of your efforts, why not show it off? Share your experience, tips and advice for others.
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